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First Impressions of Sofia
Sofia is a city that remained quite unknown for me, until a trip to Greece in 2019. After spending some time further south in Crete, it came time to return home to Berlin. Rather than simply fly directly back to Berlin, we took advantage of our stopover in Sofia, to have one final adventure before closing out the vacation. I had no preconceived notions of the city and wasn't sure what to expect other than a few pictures I had seen and some very basic facts about the country and region. It was only about an 8-hour visit but it left a very powerful impression on me. It felt as though some parts of the city hadn't changed in centuries while others were brand new and incredibly vibrant. Some parts were modern and others were ancient. The style of the people was unique and seemed to encapsulate all of the influences that have swept through the city over the past several decades. I was intrigued, confused and excited to see more. After departing from the city, I thought to myself, that I would love to come back to see more, in order to try to build a better picture of what this city is really all about.
Sofia, Round Two
Fast forward a few years and I have the opportunity to return for a German-Bulgarian wedding! It was the perfect opportunity to experience a bit more of the city, the people and the culture. It was also a good opportunity to try to fill in some of the puzzle pieces that were remaining from the collage I had previously built in my mind. The initial impression was quite similar to what I remembered but the image began to transform as a more complete picture came into focus. There was still this contrast between new and old everywhere I looked. I enjoyed that I was able to stroll down old cobblestone streets and stumble upon a beautiful café with glass facades, tucked away under the cover of a shady tree; then continue a couple blocks further to discover a massive, old, Orthodox church with a beautifully-maintained garden.
During the day the city had a very calm, comfortable atmosphere that slowly developed into a bustling nightlife with hundreds of bars and cafés that were hardly noticeable during the day. The first night of the wedding, gave me the opportunity to expand on what I had already seen, starting with the food.
A Bulgarian Feast
The first night, we were treated to a massive feast, complete with every item a carnivore could wish for. Luckily, I was extremely hungry from a combination of the heat, the flight and concentration with the German I was attempting to understand. This traditional Bulgarian restaurant was beautifully decorated and outfitted with various cloths, amphorae, instruments and countless other items that depicted Bulgarian culture. The platter was presented on a giant wooden disc, with three eyelets situated evenly around the exterior. These were then used to secure the plate from three hanging chains above the table. This was a convenient way to bring in tons of food while still maintaining the individual's space on the table. A newly-befriended, fellow 'plus one' and I split a mixed grill with various meats, potatoes and tomato-based chutney. After doing some damage on this plate, we were then presented with an interesting looking, but amazing smelling, dish of, of course, more meat. The lamb parts were unique and are not commonly eaten in my hometown but were an interesting experience for me, as I had never tried what sat in front of me. I'm no stranger to odd foods and was excited to try something new but some tongue, brain and possibly other meats were definitely pushing my boundaries a bit. After consuming heaps of food and drink, we of course had to close out the night with the local liquor, Rakia (ракия); a common fruit-derived, intense drink found throughout the Balkans.
Rise and Shine
The next morning called for a much needed coffee and to my pleasant surprise, they seemed to be very fond of 'freddo espresso.' I was first introduced to this drink in Cyprus back in 2010 and was reminded of it once more in 2019 on the aforementioned trip to Greece. Since then, I've ordered it every chance I had on those hot summer days, where a boiling-hot coffee, just doesn't quite hit the spot. Baked goods are also quite popular at most of the cafes I came across. I was thrilled to see they also make börek; a delicious spinach-filled, flaky-dough pastry that I am familiar with through many Turkish bakeries here in Berlin. The combination was perfect to get me going in the morning and prepare me for the wedding festivities. It didn't, however, prepare our group to find the "Обредна зала" or "Ritual hall." After frantically running around, translating Bulgarian terms from google maps and asking innocent bystanders where to go, we got there in the nick of time to slink seamlessly to the end of the line, in order to congratulate the family. Following a short break with some champagne and air conditioning to calm the nerves and dry some sweat, we continued on to the main wedding venue.
A Marriage of History and Nature
Driving to the outskirts of the city really contributed to the perception I had previously conceived of the city. It was interesting to see all of the massive office buildings and recognizable companies that lined the edge of the city. In addition to this, we were able to get a much clearer view of the towering mountains surrounding the city, including the biggest and most imposing, Vitosha. We also had the opportunity to stop at a beautiful park with many unique imported flora, such as the Giant Sequoia from my neck of the woods, the Sierra Nevada Mountains, California. A few pictures were taken and we continued on to the main venue to the south of the city. It was situated on the shore of a gorgeous lake surrounded by mountains and greenery. The altar reached out and hovered over the lake to provide nearly 360-degree views for the bride and groom and an incredible backdrop complete with frighteningly dramatic lightning strikes during the ceremony. Fittingly, the couple had a nice metal theme and style, so I felt the lightning strikes were appropriate. In addition, everyone came out unscathed, minus the frightened, very vocal rooster nearby who decided to speak his peace during the ceremony.
Cut a Rug
Once the ceremony came to a close, we were able to move on to the dance floor. First, we needed to get properly prepared for the night with some drinks and food. A couple drinks and a few courses later, people began to move toward the center of the room for some good times! First, it was the bride and groom with some unique and entertaining games and traditions that exemplified their love and commitment to one another. Slowly, the bridesmaids and groomsmen began to join in on the fun, e.g. with a dance train that encircled the dance floor and incorporated traditional Bulgarian music and dance. It also served as an enticing way to encourage all the guests to participate. Soon enough, the rest of the guests caught the bug and couldn't help themselves from enjoying the fantastic music. At this point, the environment transformed into a wonderful mix, reminiscent of the city itself; traditional, modern, and lively. The mix of music and guests was beautiful and ignited passion in everyone involved.
Terminology
Preconceived notions - Idea or opinions created beforehand without sufficient evidence.
Encapsulate - To clearly and concisely express the essence of something
To stumble upon - To come across or learn about something by accident
Bustling - Full of energy or activity
Carnivore - One who only eats meat
Amphorae - Large clay pots used for storing goods such as wine, oil, or grains
Depicted - Portrayed or represented by something
Eyelets - Circular steel, typically used as an attachment point when hanging or securing
Plus one- The extra person who is allowed to come with an invited person. Commonly used for weddings, parties and other events.
To do some damage - In this context, it means to manage to eat a lot of the large portion of food.
Heaps - A large amount or a pile of something
Called for - In this context it means the the late night necessitated a coffee and some food to wake up or feel better.
Aforementioned - You can use this word to refer back to something you have previously mentioned, rather than completely reintroduce it.
Hit the spot - Something that was perfect in the moment. "that massage really hit the spot after such a crazy weekend"
Frantically - doing something in a chaotic, hurried or emotional manner
Bystanders - People who are standing nearby
Slink - to move stealthily, often in a mischievous manner
Conceived - Created or formed either in one's head or physically such as in birth
Imposing - Impressive or grand in appearance
Neck of the woods - Common phrase for your home region or area
Unscathed - without being harmed or affected by something
Exemplified - to illustrate or show something through a tangible or concrete method.
Reminiscent - reminding one of something or to suggest something
Catch the bug - often used when someone gets addicted to or passionate about something such as travel, or another hobby/interest. In this case, the dancing was 'contagious' similar to catching a cold or flu (aka bug)
Ignited - to light on fire; to begin something such as a passion or idea.